If  you  have  no  use  for  this  Catalogue  kindly  haud  to  some  neighbor  or  friend  whom  you  think  contemplate  building. 


OF  THE 


The  Strongest,  Most  Economical 
Barn  Frames  In  Use. 


and  no  one  has  a  right  to  build 
them  without  our  lioense. 


These  Frames 
are  protected  by 


McCBBBR  BROS., 

Gregory,  Mich., 
OWNERS  AND  DATBN'TBBS 


Local  Agent 


—  ■- 

1 

W\ 

1 

.a. 

i  j,  i 

RY  LIBRARY 

1IA  UNIVERSITY 


The  above  cat  represents  the  post  frame  with  the  exception 
of  the  intermediate  rafters.  The  rafters  shown  are  those 
immediately  above  the  bents  or  cross  sections. 


i 


2 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


3Tlicf)igcu>  ^c)arr\  ^Van>es. 


In  presenting  you  with  this  catalogue,  which  contains  the 
necessary  drawings  and  instructions  for  erecting  the  Michigan 
plank  Frames,  we  realize  that  farmers  as  a  rule  are  prejudiced 
against  this  style  of  building  for  one  of  two  reasons — either 
through  lack  of  any  knowledge  of  them  whatever,  they  dislike 
to  take  up  with  anything  new,  or  else  in  their  travels,  or 
perhaps  in  their  own  neighborhood  they  have  seen  what  was 
styled  a  plank  barn  frame  which  did  not  give  satisfaction; 
either  the  roof  was  sagged,  the  contents  had  bulged  the  sides, 
or  the  wind  had  racked  the  frame  out  of  plumb.  All  of  these 
faults  are  due  to  the  builder’s  lack  of  knowledge  of  the  way 
these  frames  should  be  put  together. 

While  there  are  many  ways  in  which  plank  may  be  joined 
together  in  the  construction  of  a  barn  frame,  there  are  few 
right  ways,  and  experience  alone  teaches  which  of  these  is  the 
most  suitable.  A  carpenter  may  be  a  first-class  workman  and 
still  not  be  able  to  build  a  substantial  plank  barn  frame,  with¬ 
out  some  previous  experience  along  that  particular  line,  for 
carpenters  are  like  all  other  workmen,  as  we  ourselves  can 
testify,  they  can  always  find  a  chance  for  improvement  in  their 
work  until  by  putting  their  whole  attention  to  a  certain  line 
of  work  they  bring  it  to  that  state  of  perfection  where  it  is 
impossible  to  go  any  farther  in  the  way  of  improvement. 
Do  not  judge  that  because  some  one  frame  that  you  have  seen 
or  heard  of  has  proved  a  failure  that  they  all  must  necessarily 
be  failures. 

The  hesitancy  that  we  sometimes  show  in  the  adoption  of 
anything  new  is  nothing  but  natural  and  in  time  as  we  become 
more  accustomed  to  this  style  of  building  this  prejudice  will 
gradually  die  out,  for  in  all  localities  where  the  Michigan 
Plank  Frames  have  been  built  they  have  won  the  praise  of  all; 
even  those  who  were  at  first  opposed  to  them  now  unite  in 
praising  their  good  qualities. 

The  Strength  of  the  Michigan  Flank  Frames  Com¬ 
pared  With  That  of  the  Timber  Frame. 

While  we  realize  that  the  old  timber  frame  has  withstood 
the  test  and  has  given  general  satisfaction  as  regard  to  strength 
and  durability,  we  have  no  hesitancy  in  saying  that  the 
Michigan  Plank  Frames  are  stronger  in  every  way.  Having 
built  many  frames  of  timber,  as  well  as  of  plank,  we  are  in  a 
position  to  judge,  and  in  this  we  are  supported  by  all  who 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


have  in  anyway  examined  or  compared  the  two.  Where  the 
Michigan  Plank  Frames  excel  in  strength  is  in  the  bracing  and 
in  the  aianncr  of  joining  the  beams  where  they  intersect.  The 
braces  are  longer,  reaching  from  sill  to  plate,  and  are  spiked 
at  each  end  and  to  all  other  parts  of  the  frame  that  they  cross 
or  come  in  contact  with  thus  doing  double  the  duty  of  a 
mortise  brace,  which  holds  only  one  way,  and  in  time  the 
frame  by  constant  racking  in  the  wind  allows  them  to  fall  out 
entirely.  In  the  Michigan  Plank  Frames  there  is  more  than 
double  the  amount  of  material  used  for  bracing  than  would  be 
used  in  a  t  inier  frame  of  the  same  size,  therefore  with  double 
the  material  and  every  foot  of  the  material  doing  double  the 
dutv  of  a  mortise  brace  there  is  four  times  the  strength  in  the 
bracing  of  a  plank  frame  than  that  of  the  old  style  timber 
frame. 

In  the  Michigan  Plank  Frames  the  manner  of  joining  the 
beams  where  they  intersect  is  such  that  they  retain  all  or 
nearly  all  of  the  entire  strength  of  the  stick  or  timber  used. 
In  the  old  timber  frame  many  are  deceived  by  this.  Do  not 
judge  the  strength  of  a  timber  frame  by  the  size  of  the  timbers. 
Be  the  timbers  ever  so  large  they  are  usually  cut  away  to  a 
2x8  or  2x10  tenant,  and  its  strength  must  be  judged  accord¬ 
ingly.  In  our  self-supporting  gambrel  roof  we  use  no  purlin; 
instead  we  use  a  plate  on  each  side  of  the  rafter  at  the  hip 
making  the  rafter  as  strong  in  the  hip  as  in  any  other  part. 
This  makes  ths  roof  self-supporting  and  much  stronger  than 
could  be  made  if  a  purlin  plate  or  beam  were  used.  Some 
carpenters  may  at  first  object  to  this,  but  by  a  few  minutes 
study  they  will  readily  see  their  mistake.  Where  a  purlin 
plate  is  used  and  the  rafters  toe  nailed  to  it  from  either  side 
the  strength  of  the  rafter  itself  is  entirely  broken  which 
throws  the  whole  weight  of  the  upper  root  on  the  purlin 
plate,  and  unless  it  be  unusually  large  it  would  spring  out 
between  bents  and  allow  the  roof  to  settle  at  the  peak;  the 
upper  roof  being  quite  flat  it  has  a  great  purchase  on  the 
purlin  plate.  This  would  increase  as  the  peak  of  the  roof 
continued  to  settle.  The  Michigan  Plank  Frame  we  know  to 
be  perfect,  the  manner  of  putting  the  rafters  together  at  the 
hip  and  every  brace,  bridge,  tie  and  support  throughout. 
These  frames  have  been  tested  and  are  capable  of  withstanding 
any  strain  that  would  naturally  be  brought  to  bear  upon  them 
and  are  so  put  together  as  to  obtain  the  best  possible  results 
from  the  amount  of  timber  used.  There  are  no  loose  braces, 
no  loose  ends,  no  mortising  or  draw-boring;  you  get  the  full 
strength  of  every  piece. 


■4 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


The  Cost  of  the  Michigan  PlnnK  Frames  Compared 
to  That  of  the  Old  Style  Timber  Frame. 

In  our  comparisons  we  will  not  exaggerate  in  the  least  but 
will  give  as  near  as  may  be  the  exact  cost  of  labor  and  material 
needed  in  the  construction  of  the  different  fran  cs,  as  the 
illustrations  show  a  frame  which  is  34x46  feet  on  the  wall 
with  16  foot  posts  (or  16  foot  to  the  square)  we  will  take 
this  as  a  basis  on  which  to  figure.  As  to  cost  of  material  and 
labor  they  vary  considerably  in  different  localities,  however, 
as  the  comparison  will  be  the  same  will  use  the  present  price 
of  labor  and  material  in  this  locality. 


Cost  of  a  Timber  Frame,  34x46,  16  Foot  Posts,  Com¬ 
mon  Roof,  No  Basement. 

Number  of  feet  of  material,  board  measure,  12,760; 
all  timbers  running  lengthwise  of  building  to  be 
spliced  in  center;  length  of  timbers  from  10  to 
34  feet;  average  cost  $18.00  per  thousand.  Total 


cost  of  material,  -  -  -  $2L9.84 

COST  OF  LABOK. 

Number  of  days  to  prepare  frame  for  raising  36, 

$2.00  per  day,  -  -  -  $  72.10 

Number  of  meals  108,  12|  cents  per  meal,  -  13  50 

Number  of  meals  day  of  raising  50,  -  .  6.25 

Total  Cost,  -  -  $321.59 


Cost  of  Timber  Frame,  34x46,  16  Foot  Posts,  Gambrel 
Roof,  No  Basement. 


Material,  14,269  feet, 

Labor,  40  days,  $2.00  per  day, 

$256.84 

80.00 

Meals  120  )  _n 

Raising  meals  r>n  f  11  °>  »*  124c  P°' 

21.25 

Total. 

$358.09 

Please  note  we  allow  nothinir  for  labor  of  raising. 

*  -  CT 


SPECIAL. 

If  in  our  Instructions  and  Drawings  we  have  not  been 
sufficiently  plain  to  enable  one  to  thoroughly  understand  them 
please  write  us,  as  any  information  concerning  these  Frames 
which  we  can  furnish  will  be  cheerfully  given  free  of  charge. 


OUR  PATENTS  cover  these  Frames  in  their  several 
parts,  not  as  a  whole,  therefore,  if  anyone  were  to  use  any  of 
the  main  parts  of  one  of  these  Frames  in  the  construction  of  a 
Frame,  without  permission,  he  would  be  liable  for  infringe 
ment. 


Agents. 

We  want  good,  reliable  agents  in  every  county  to  intro¬ 
duce  these  Frames  and  represent  us. 

We  allow  our  agents  a  liberal  commission,  and  as  this  is 
certainly  the  coming  Barn  Frame,  it  means  a  harvest  to  those 
who  are  first  in  the  field. 

Write  for  our  “Terms  to  Agents.” 


Anyone  desiring  the  same,  may  by  ans\$eriug  the  following 
questions,  (when  making  an  application  for  a  “Permit  to 
Build”)  obtain  a  complete  bill  of  material  for  their  Frame 
free  of  charge: 

Length  and  width  of  your  Frame? 

Kind  of  Frame  (Balloon  or  Post?) 

Kind  of  Roof  (Common  or  Gambrel?) 

Height  of  Posts  or  Studding? 

Kind  of  Siding  (Vertical  or  Horizontal?) 

If  Basement,  give  height  and  amount  of  frame  work. 
Number  of  Driveways  if  any? 

Give  some  idea  of  arrangement  of  the  interior. 

McCLEER  BROS., 

Gregory,  Mich. 


Plate.  1 

Basement  of  Post  Frame 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


5 


o 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Praines. 


Cost  of  Michigan  Post  Frame,  34x46,  16  Foot  Posts, 
Common  Roof,  No  Basement. 

Number  feet  of  material,  board  measure,  8,080  feet, 
length  of  material  10  to  16  feet;  price  per 


thousand  $14.00.  Total  cost  of  material,  -  $113.12 

COST  OF  LABOR. 

Frame  raising  and  complete- — 12  days’  work,  $2.00 

per  day,  $  24.00 

400  pounds  of  nails,  $3.00  per  hundred  -  12.00 

36  meals,  12^  cents  per  meal,  -  -  4.50 

Total  Cost,  -  -  -  -  $153.62 


Cost  of  Michigan  Post  Frame,  34x46,  16  Fcot  Pests, 
Gambrel  Roof,  No  Basement. 

Amount  of  material  9,671  feet,  at  $14.00  per  thousand,  $135.39 


Nails  400  pounds,  -  -  -  -  12.00 

Labor,  12  days,  $2.00  per  day,  -  -  24.00 

Meals  36,  124  cents  per  meal,  -  -  4.50 


Total  Cost,  $175.89 


Cost  of  the  Michigan  Balloon  Frame,  34x46,  16  Foot 
Posts,  Common  Roof,  No  Basement. 

Number  feet  of  material,  board  measure,  7,342, 
length  of  material  10  to  16  feet;  price  of  material 
$14.00  per  thousand.  Total  cost  of  material,  $102.79 
400  pounds  of  nails,  -  -  -  12.00 

Labor.  12  days,  $2.00  per  day,  -  -  24.00 

Meals  36,  124  cents  per  meal.  -  -  4.50 


Total  Cost, 


$143.29 


Cost  of  the  Michigan  Balloon  Frame,  34x46,  16  Foot 
Posts,  Gambrel  Roof,  No  Basement. 

Number  feet  of  material  8,933,  lengtli  10  to  16  feet; 


price  per  thousand  $14.00.  Total  cost,  -  $125.06 

Nails,  400  pounds,  -  -  -  12.00 

Labor,  12  days,  $2.00  per  day,  -  -  24.00 

Meals  36;  124  cents  per  meal,  -  -  -  4.50 


Total  cost,  -  -  -  $165.56 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


2T7I 


8 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


The  Michigan  Flank  Frames  Are  Convenient  for  the 
Use  of  Modern  Hay  Tools. 

One  of  the  greatest  advantages  of  these  frames  lies  in 
their  being  in  every  way  suited  to  the  use  of  modern  hay  slings 
and  hay  forks,  there  being  no  cross-beams  whatever,  leaving 
a  space  on  either  side  of  driveway  from  floor  to  peak  of  roof 
clear  of  all  obstruction,  which  does  not  interfere  in  any  way 
with  the  strength  of  building.  The  manner  of  bracing  the 
interior  bent  makes  it  impossible  for  the  frame  to  spread  in 
the  least.  (See  plate  4.) 

In  unloading  hay  with  slings  it  can  be  taken  direct  into 
the  bay  from  the  load,  then  by  giving  it  a  gentle  push  it  will 
swing  like  a  pendulum  and  may  be  dropped  in  any  part  of  the 
bay  desired.  This  will  save  horse  flesh  and  also  an  extra  man 
in  mow. 


The  Michigan  Flank  Frames  Are  Simple  and  Easy  to 

Construct. 

With  the  use  of  the  printed  instructions  one  with  a 
limited  amount  of  experience  as  a  carperter  can  understand 
and  superintend  the  building.  These  frames  require  no 
raising.  They  are  put  up  as  you  would  put  up  a  house  frame, 
requiring  no  more  help.  Four  men  is  the  most  that  is 
required  at  any  one  time  during  the  construction  of  the  frame. 
Commencing  at  the  bottom  it  is  built  piece  by  piece  with 
braces,  girts,  ties  and  trusses  to  the  top,  and  with  everything 
well  spiked  it  makes  a  frame  that  is  perfectly  solid  and  one 
that  if  kept  covered  will  last  for  all  time.  In  the  building  of 
these  frames  there  is  no  high  scaffolding;  the  rafters  are  raised 
from  a  scaffold  on  a  level  with  the  plate;  the  gables  have  no 
scaffolding  whatever,  the  cornice  being  put  on  from  the  roof. 


The  Michigan  Flank  Frames  Are  All  That  Is  Claimed 

for  Them. 

For  the  past  15  years  we  have  been  personally  engaged 
in  barn  building  throughout  Southern  Michigan  and  of  the  many 
barns  we  have  built  there  is  not  one  but  what  is  as  straight  and 
perfect  as  it  was  the  day  of  completion,  although  some  of  the 
first  have  not  all  the  improvements  of  the  modern  Michigan 
Plank  Frames.  It  is  a  fact  that  in  all  localities  where  the 
Michigan  Plank  Frames  have  been  introduced  they  have 
attracted  wide-spread  attention.  This  i.s  owing  to  their 


* 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames.  10 

cheapness,  which  means  a  saving  of  over  50  per  cent  in  their 
cost,  and  in  their  being  in  every  way  suited  to  the  use  of 
modern  hay  tools.  A  glance  at  one  of  these  frames  after  it 
has  been  erected  is  sufficient  to  convince  the  most  skeptical  that 
they  are  all  that  is  claimed  for  them,  for  they  have  a  strong 
and  substantial  appearance  unlike  many  of  the  so-called  plank 
and  balloon  frames. 

In  purchasing  the  right  to  build  one  of  the  Michigan 
Plank  Frames  you  get  the  benefit  of  our  experience  in  barn 
building,  which  extends  over  a  period  of  fifteen  years,  and 
insures  you  against  an}'  local  contractor  experimenting  at  your 
expense.  We  guarantee  these  farmes  to  stand  and  give 
perfect  satisfaction,  if  built  according  to  instructions.  Our 
charge  for  a  permit  to  build  either  the  post  or  balloon  frame  is 
2 o  cents  per  lineal  foot,  regardless  of  highth  or  width.  NTo 
extra  charge  where  basement  is  used.  Price  for  roof  alone 
15  cents  per  lineal  foot. 


Instructions  for  Constructing  the  “Michigan”  Cost 

Frame. 

Lav  and  level  sill  on  basement  wall  of  3 — 2x10;  spiking 
it  as  it  is  put  together. 

Build  main  posts  of  4 — 2x8.  Place,  plumb  and  stay,  toe- 
nailing  at  the  bottom  with  wire  spikes.  These  posts  should 
be  placed  directly  under  the  posts  above. 

Build  side  sill  on  top  of  posts  of  4 — 2x8  edgewise  up,  and 
connecting  at  corner  with  upper  sill,  which  is  similar  to  lower 
sill  as  shown  in  cut.  On  end  of  building,  where  basement  is 
of  frame  work,  use  single  2x8  edgewise  up  for  upper  sill, 
(plate  3.)  put  in  braces  and  girts  of  4x4,  cutting  girts 
between,  toe-nailing  at  the  end.  Get  length  of  collar  posts 
by  drawing  line  across  top  of  sills  (this  saves  leveling  stone) 
taking  out  8  inches  for  cross-sill.  Make  posts  for  cross  sill  of 
6 — 2x8  with  collar  attached.  Place,  plumb  and  stay,  (post 
may  be  shifted  either  way  if  desired)  then  proceed  with  sill  as 
before,  using  6- — 2x8  edgewise  up,  letting  them  into  wall  at 
end,  (removing  the  necessary  stone)  and  halving  into  end  sill 
Place  joists  overhead  of  2x8,  2  feet  centers,  except  under 
driveway  and  grain  bins;  these  should  be  16  inch  centers. 
Straighten  cross-sills  and  spike  joists  firmly  at  each  end,  as 
they  act  as  a  tie  to  bold  building  together. 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Trainee. 


L 1 


Upper  posts  sire  made  of  4 — 2x8  spiked  together  (plate  2.) 

Girts  are  spiked  between  posts  before  raising,  spiking 
through  2x8  into  end  of  girt,  using  30-penny  spikes.  Then 
raise  as  shown  on  plate  2,  starting  atone  corner  and  continuing 
around  building,  putting  in  ties  on  each  side  of  driveway  as 
you  go.  Build  plate  and  spring  beam  on  top  of  posts  of  3 — 
2x8,  and  in  bridge  form  as  shown  on  plate  3,  putting  in  brace 
underneath  point  of  bridge  to  prevent  hay  from  pressing  it 
down.  Put  in  braces  of  2x6  as  shown  on  plates  2  and  3, 
spiking  at  the  ends  and  to  girts.  Make  beam  over  driveway 
door  of  4 — 2x6,  put  in  same  as  girts.  Put  in  braces  over 
door  of  2x8  as  a  support  to  plate,  making  top  of  opening 
slightly  octagon  in  shape,  which  does  not  interfere  in  any  way 
with  passing  in  and  out,  making  the  doors,  however,  as  if 
opening  was  square. 

After  siding  the  basement  and  upper  part. 

Construct  lower  half  of  interior  bent,  and  build  scaffold 
over  driveway,  if  one  is  required.  Spike  2x8  from  one  scaffold 
post  to  the  other  across  center  of  building  on  each  side  of 
driveway.  (These  must  not  be  removed  until  interior  bent  is 
complete,  as  shown  on  plate  4.)  Lay  plank  onto  these  and 
onto  spring-beam  for  the  purpose  of  raising  rafters.  Nail 
rafters  well  together  at  hip  with  a  1x6,  4  feet  long  on  either 
side,  using  one  having  been  nailed  as  a  model.  This  will 
insure  evenness  of  hip.  If  upper  rafters  are  over  12  foot  long 
use  a  1x12  instead  of  1x6  on  each  side  of  hip,  covering  the 
entire  joint.  Place  foot  of  rafters  in  position  and  nail  peak 
together,  a  1x6,  1  foot  long,  across  peak.  Raise  with  pike  at 
each  hip,  commencing  at  either  end  and  working  to  center  of 
building.  Fill  in  gable  ends  as  shown  on  plate  3,  using  posts 
of  3 — 2x6,  girts  and  braces  put  in  same  as  below.  Having 
partially  roof-boarded  building,  finish  interior  bent  as  shown 
on  plate  4.  Single  2x8  or  2x10  may  be  used  for  tie  and  brace 
to  roof  if  desired. 


'JBB  Plate  ?  nub 

Interior  Bent,  Either  Style  Seij*>9t*£ 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


12 


Showing  Hip 


I 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Trainee. 


13 


Instructions  for  Constructing  the  “Michigan”  Bal¬ 
loon  Frame. 

Lay  and  level  sill  on  wall  in  basement  of  2 — 2x10.  Use 
studding  of  2x8,  2  feet  centers,  with  sill  on  top  of  2  —  2x8, 
continuing  around  building.  Cut  girts  between  studding  of 
2x4  edgewise  up,  using  2x6  for  braces;  also  cut  between  the 
two  tilling  out  the  width  of  studding,  see  plate  5.  Construct 
cross-sills  same  as  plank  frame,  using  same  joists  put  on  in 
same  manner.  Raise  upper  studding  of  2x6,  2  feet  centers, 
setting  them  back  2  inches  from  face  of  sill  and  plate,  spiking 
to  joists  at  lower  end.  Spike  braces  and  girts  of  2x4  on  out¬ 
side  of  studding,  coming  out  flush  with  sill  and  plate,  see 
plates  6  and  7.  Build  plate  and  spring  beam  same  as  post 
frame,  doing  away  with  the  2x8  edgewise  up.  Stud  and  girt 
gable  same  as  below.  Construct  roof  same  as  post  frame. 

Where  Common  Roof  Is  Used. 

Construct  frame  same  as  instructions  for  post  or  plank 
frame,  with  the  exception  of  roof  and  interior  bent. 

In  a  frame  for  a  common  roof  we  use  a  purlin  and 
interior  bent,  as  shown  on  plate  8,  using  for  purlin  plate  two 
2x10  and  one  2x4,  built  as  shown  in  cut.  Braces  can  be 
adjusted  as  bay  varies  in  width,  putting  in  gable  end  same  as 
gambrel  roof. 

O 


Where  Horizontal  Siding  Is  Used. 

Use  balloon  frame,  doing  away  with  all  girts,  set  studding 
out  flush  with  sill  and  plate,  put  braces  on  inside  instead  of 
outside  of  frame.  We  do  not  recommend  horizontal  siding, 
as  the  grain  running  crosswise  it  holds  the  moisture,  which 
will  cause  it  to  rot.  It  will  also  allow  the  rain  to  beat  through 
more  or  less  and  paint  will  not  wear  as  long. 

Conditions. 

The  plates  show  a  building  34x46  feet,  16  feet  posts,  and 
8  foot  basement.  Lower  rafters  14  feet  long,  18  inches  raise 
to  12  inches  run.  Upper  rafters  12  feet  long,  6  inches  raise 
to  12  inches  run.  This  makes  a  well  proportioned  and  strong 
roof.  Lower  rafters  should  be  from  2  to  6  feet  longer  than 
those  above.  Shape  of  roof  may  be  adjusted  to  suit. 

Where  a  gambrel  roof  is  used  the  hay  and  grain  capacity 
is  so  great  that  the  basement  frame  should  be  built  unusually 
strong,  therefore  where  a  building  is  over  34  feet  wide  use 
2x10  for  joists  and  in  constructing  the  two  cross-sills.  Posts 
of  5 — 2x8.  upper  sill  of  5 — 2x8  instead  of  4. 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


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The  Michigan  Pr>vh  Horn  Frames. 


If  the  building  is  38  feet  wide  or  over  use  a  double  bridge 
plate  and  spring-beam,  as  shown  on  plate  3.  In  the  post 
frame  where  bay  is  over  18  feet  deep  use  another  post  on  side 
half  way  across,  putting  in  braces  between  posts,  as  shown  on 
plate  2. 

When  desired  square  timbers  may  be  used  for  basement 
posts  and  cross-sills,  or  where  it  is  desired  to  work  in  an  old 
frame.  Construct  the  whole  basement  of  square  timbers. 

Hewn  joists  may  be  used  by  champering  oil'  ends  to  allow 
spiking  to  sills. 

In  building  a  frame  with  no  basement  use  a  sill  of  2  or 
3 — -2x8,  according  to  frame.  Use  same  cross-sills,  resting 
them  on  butments,  and  extend  them  under  as  much  of  building 
as  it  is  desired  to  floor. 

For  stock  barn  with  hay  loft. — In  most  buildings  of  this 
kind  we  prefer  the  balloon  frame.  Run  the  joists  crosswise 
of  building,  same  as  lower  joists,  resting  them  on  a  1x12 
spiked  to  inside  of  studding  at  the  desired  height,  letting  the 
joists  project  by,  which  are  also  spiked  to  studding.  Support 
joists  in  center,  same  as  over  basement,  plates  1  and  5. 
Support  roof  with  upper  half  of  interior  bent,  plate  4,  placed 
at  intervals  of  not  over  24  feet,  allowing  the  brace  to  roof  to 
extend  down  below  the  floor  as  far  as  possible  without  inter¬ 
fering  and  spike  to  outside  studding. 

In  a  frame  where  there  is  no  scaffolding  over  driveway  or 
where  the  bays  are  of  sufficient  depth  to  require  a  cross-section 
in  the  center  set  the  scaffold  post  back  directly  under  the  hip, 
raise  the  scaffold  beam  close  up  under  the  plate  and  brace  on 
each  side  back  to  plate  similar  to  brace  on  the  corner.  This 
will  prevent  the  contents  of  barn  from  racking  it  over. 

Spiking. 

Use  30d  for  spiking  through  plate  into  end  of  studding 
or  into  end  of  joists;  16d  for  toe-nailing  studding  and  rafters 
to  plate  and  sill:  where  3-ply  or  more  are  nailed  together  use 
40d. 


Corner  Post 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Fran  tea. 


16 


17 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


The  Advantages  Claimed  for  the  Michigan  Hank 

Frames. 

1st.  The  cost  of  these  frames  is  less  than  one-half  that 
of  a  timber  frame  of  the  same  size. 

2nd.  The  building  of  these  frames  requires  no  raising 
as  would  be  necessary  for  a  timber  frame. 

3rd.  Four  men  is  the  most  that  is  required  at  any  one 
time  during  the  construction  of  the  frames. 

4th.  Logs  from  scrubby  trees  that  would  not  make 
square  timbers  can  be  sawed  and  used  in  a  frame  of  this  kind. 

5th.  No  cross-beams  to  interfere  with  hay  slings,  leaving 
a  space  on  each  side  of  driveway  from  floor  to  peak  of  roof 
clear  of  all  obstruction. 

6th.  No  racking  of  the  frame  by  the  wind  as  is  common 
with  a  timber  frame,  or  a  frame  that  is  put  together  with 
bolts.  When  this  frame  is  thoroughly  spiked  it  can  not  move 

ii 

an  atom,  but  will  remain  as  it  is  placed. 

7th.  The  sides  and  ends  of  the  frame  will  never  bulo-e 
out  with  our  system  of  trussing. 

8th.  The  roof  will  never  sag  or  settle  out  of  shape,  but 
will  remain  as  it  is  put  on. 

9th.  This  self-supporting  gambrel  roof  can  be  placed  on 
an  old  timber  frame  at  a  very  little  extra  cost,  which  would 
increase  the  storage  room  nearly  one-half,  and  would  also 
improve  the  looks  of  the  building. 


Plate  7 

End  Bent,  Baloon  Frame 

Sea  7  e'/ghsFt 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


J8 


Thu  Michigan  Flank  Barn  Frames. 


L9 


Testimonials. 

“McCleer  Bros.,  of  Gregory,  Mich.,  built  me  one  of  their 
Michigan  Plank  Frame  Barns,  size  34x60  feet,  8  foot  base¬ 
ment,  16  foot  posts  above,  with  gambrel  roof,  and  I  can  say 
that  could  1  exchange  it  for  a  timber  frame  at  the  same  price 
I  would  not,  for  I  believe  the  Plank  Frame,  put  together  as  is 
mine,  to  be  superior  in  every  way.  My  barn  has  been  visited 
by  several  parties  from  different  parts  of  the  county,  and  I 
have  yet  to  hear  anyone  bestow  upon  it  anything  but  the 
highest  praise.  I  can  further  say  to  those  who  contemplate 
building  that  I  am  satisfied  that  these  frames  can  be  built  for 
one-half  less  money  than  timber  frames,  and  be  just  as  sub¬ 
stantial.”  EDWARD  DOODY,  Uuadilla,  Mich. 


•  ‘  To  Whom  It  May  Concern: 

I  have  a  Balloon  Frame  Barn  built  by  McCleer  Bros,  in 
the  spring  of  ’98.  Its  dimensions  are  as  follows:  36x80,  16 
foot  studding,  gambrel  roof  with  two  cupolas.  Barn  has  two 
driveways,  stalls  for  10  head  of  cattle,  granary  of  2,500  bushel 
capacity,  store  room  20x24  for  farm  machinery,  sufficient 
room  to  accommodate  200  sheep,  room  in  hay  loft  for  80  tons 
of  hay,  hay  slings  and  track  complete,  all  finished  in  the  best 
workmanlike  manner  by  12  workmen  in  seven  days  of  10 
hours  each,  or  84  days  in  all.  To  build  the  same  barn  of 
timber  frame  would  have  taken  at  least  150  days.  Not  only 
is  this  style  of  building  a  great  saving  of  labor,  but  it  is  also 
a  great  saving  in  lumber.  1  believe  a  frame  put  up  in  this 
manner  to  be  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  any  frame  used.” 

A.  C.  COLLINS,  Stockbridge,  Mich. 


“The  self  supporting  gambrel  roof  used  on  the  Michigan 
Plank  Frames  I  believe  has  no  equal  for  strength.  In  drawing 
hay  I  use  only  two  slings.  At  different  times  the  upper  sling 
has  been  accidently  dumped  on  the  load  when  I  would  take  the 
entire  load,  weighing  not  less  than  one  ton,  into  the  bay  at 
one  draft.  The  roof  not  only  supports  this  draft,  but  also  the 
weight  of  a  large  cupola,  which  is  directly  above  the  drive¬ 
way."  JOSEPH  BOWEN,  Gregory,  Mich. 


•iy  »/r?s 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


20 


21 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames. 


“I  wish  to  state  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  are  not 
acquainted  with  the  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Frames  that  1  have 
one  on  my  farm,  which  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of 
Washtenaw  county.  This  barn  was  built  in  1S98;  I  used  the 
balloon  style  with  gambrel  roof.  Ten  years  previous  to  the 
time  of  building  the  balloon  frame  I  built  a  heavy  timber 
frame.  The  two  barns  stand  side  by  side  in  the  same  yard. 
Since  building  the  balloon  frame  I  have  been  surprised  to  note 
the  difference  in  the  two  during  a  heavy  wind.  While  the 
timber  frame  would  rack  and  tremble  as  if  it  were  about  to 
collapse,  I  could  not  distinguish  the  least  tremble  in  the  balloon 
frame.  Before  building  this  frame  I  was  in  doubt  as  to  its 
stability,  but  realizing  that  the  cost  would  be  less  than  one- 
half  of  that  of  a  timber  frame  of  the  same  size  I  decided  to 
build  it  and  am  now  more  than  satisfied.  1  would  not 
exchange  it  for  a  timber  frame  at  the  same  price,  for  I  believe 
it  to  be  a  stronger  frame,  and  to  those  who  contemplate 
building  who  wish  a  cheap,  durable,  and  a  modern  up-to-date 
barn  I  would  recommend  by  all  means  the  Michigan  Plank 
Frames.”  WM.  CLARK, 

R.  F.  D.  No.  2,  Pinckney,  Mich. 


“McCleer  Bros,  built  me  one  of  their  celebrated  Balloon 
Frame  Barns  and  I  can  say  that  I  am  more  than  satisfied, 
believing  them  to  be  all  that  is  claimed  for  them.  Not  only 
are  they  much  cheaper,  but  in  mv  judgment  they  are  stronger 
than  timber  frames.  In  one  of  these  frames  all  braces  and, 
in  fact,  every  part  is  thoroughly  spiked  and  held  in  place, 
while  in  a  timber  frame  the  braces  especially  are  mortised  in, 
and  only  one-half  of  them  ever  do  any  good.  Will  further 
state  that  I  would  not  exchange  my  barn  for  any  other  that  I 
have  seen.”  IRVING  PICKELL,  Unadilla,  Mich. 


“To  those  who  contemplate  barn  building  who  wish  a 
modern  up-  to-date  barn  I  would  cheerfully  recommend  the 
Michigan  Plank  Frames.  Having  built  one  which  I  have  used 
for  some  time  I  know  them  to  be  all  right  and  a  first-class 
frame  in  every  particular.”  JOHN  M.  HARRIS, 

Pinckney,  Mich. 


The  Michigan  Plank  Barn  Trainee. 


22 


“In  the  summer  of  ’97  my  barns  were  struck  by  lightning 
and  burned  to  the  ground.  I  began  immediately  to  look 
around  to  see  about  erecting  new  ones.  I  found  that  it  was 
almost  impossible  to  procure  timbers  of  sufficient  length  for  a 
timber  frame,  and  realizing  that  a  plank  frame  could  be  built 
much  cheaper  I  decided  to  adopt  this  style  of  building.  I 
erected  two  Balloon  Frames  according  to  McCleer  Bros’, 
patent,  called  the  Michigan  Plank  frames.  These  frames 
costing  less  than  one-half  what  timber  frames  would  have  cost 
me,  have  given  the  best  of  satisfaction.  So  much  so  that 
needing  another  barn  this  spring,  1901,  I  built  it  after  the 
same  stvle.  I  believe  these  frames  to  be  the  best  barn  frames 
in  use.’"  HATTIL  SHARP,  Stockbridge,  Mich. 


Marathon,  New  York,  8-19,  1901. 
Messrs.  McCleer  Bros., 

Gregory,  Mich. 

In  answer  to  yours  of  recent  date  asking  if  I  had  built 
one  of  your  frames  and  my  opinion  of  them,  I  would  say  that 
I  have  built  one  of  your  frames  and  it  is  in  every  way  satis¬ 
factory.  My  main  barn  is  36x60,  with  8  foot  basement,  16 
foot  posts  above,  and  hip  roof,  with  a  wing  36x40,  same 
height.  I  consider  these  frames  practical  in  every  way. 

Ynnr*  pfp 

W.  J.  BLISS.’ Marathon,  N.  Y 


Wilson,  New  York,  August  26,  1901. 
Messrs.  McCleer  Bros., 

Gregory,  Mich. 

In  answer  to  yours  asking  my  opinion  of  the  Michigan 
Plank  Frames,  would  say  that  I  built  a  barn  last  summer  40x 
80  feet,  with  9  foot  basement,  16  feet  from  basement  to  plate, 
and  a  gambrel  roof;  built  after  your  plans;  would  say  that  I 
like  them  very  much.  My  carpenters  pronounced  it  the 
strongest  and  firmest  frame  they  ever  worked  on.  Homer 
Roberts,  of  North  Ridge,  New  York,  superintended  the  work. 

Yours  Very  Respectfully, 

E.  E.  STEVENS,  Wilson,  N.  Y. 


We  have  many  more  testimonials  treating  along  the 
same  lines. 


*  ••V:j?5a2 


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